Anna, Courtauld, Westminster

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The day after our outing to Brighton, husband and I headed into central London and Somerset House (house? it’s a palace!). Here we were to meet long-time blog-friend Anna of Self-Winding who was coming in from Norfolk to meet us.

As we waited for her, we noted that the famous fountains were down and we were prevented from entering the huge courtyard because there was a Bollywood film set going up. On the other side of the Strand at India House a large demonstration was underway against India’s treatment of the Tamil Tigers, like in Brighton.

When tall, beautiful and lively Anna appeared how excited we were to meet at last! While husband went off to explore the sights along the Thames (taking the camera), we ladies went in to see the art in the adjacent Courtauld Gallery. This museum is a nice size with gorgeous rooms without being as exhausting and overwhelming as places like the British Museum or the Louvre. It has an impressive collection including some very famous works by the Impressionists. It’s a great feeling to meet so many well-known pieces that I’ve not seen in real life. Now and then as we passed by windows overlooking the courtyard we were also entertained by the colourful Bollywood dancers in action. Sadly I have no photos but the Courtauld website has this very good video and more.

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Anna and I shared the great pleasure of viewing and talking about the art together even as we chatted about personal things. As we were finishing a light lunch on the patio later, husband found us there and joined in a deep and varied conversation that continued as we sauntered over to Trafalgar Square and eventually a lingering tea and dessert under the Portrait Gallery before we had to say an almost tearful goodbye. We wished we’d had more time together but Anna had a 2 1/2 hour bus ride back home to Norfolk. We feel so honoured and grateful she made this long journey to see us and for her excellent suggestion to visit the Courtauld. Hope we shall meet again!

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From the immense Trafalgar Square, we decided to explore more of the city, and we sure did walk a lot getting somewhat lost for a while. Passing Canada House, we wandered past immense palatial looking buildings everywhere and beside a park with row upon row of identical trees (plane trees? St. James Park?). Along Whitehall we hit crowds of business-suited commuters rushing like busy ants from every building towards bus and tube stations.

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It was like coming upon a vision when suddenly, at a large intersection, we saw the immense and beautiful Palace of Westminster, also known as the Houses of Parliament and the famous Big Ben. Again we saw a group of protestors this time camped out on the opposite square!

All through this long walk we had hoped to find a place to have a modest supper but it wasn’t until we’d circled all the way back to the edge of Trafalgar Square that we found a spot to eat. Boy, were we satiated with the sights, and I was tired and knee-and-foot-sore by the time we got back by tube to our daughter’s place in Muswell Hill that evening!

P.S. If you haven’t read the earlier posts on our recent trip to UK and Paris and you are interested in them, just click on the theme Travel on the side bar or here.

a midsummer fest

Up with the early light, though the sun is obscured with cloud, I remember it is Juhannus and

… the summer solstice, (or properly June solstice for it’s winter in the southern hemisphere). Memories of magical midsummer nights in Finland, Denmark and Sweden made me long for those white nights of the north, and to feel again that amazement with how joyful and energetic the people were. Celebrations rooted in pagan times abounded. It seemed like no one slept much, just soaking in the light, as if refueling after the long dark winter. How could you sleep when the sun hit your eyes where you lay in bed, with only sheer window coverings?, I thought the first time I visited as a teenager, grumpy from jet lag.

This is the time that most Finns start their summer holidays, their trips to summer cabins by serene lakes, leaving the cities behind. Businesses reduce to minimum, it’s as if the whole country slows down. How come here in Canada, a northern nation, we don’t celebrate midsummer night? Oh, the Scandinavians communities have their events in various cities this weekend, but is that all there is? Where is the magic? Even up in northern British Columbia where we lived a few years, there was no celebration, no sense of the ancient rituals of the seasons.

Read more from last year’s nostalgic post

For the first time in some years, yesterday afternoon husband, youngest daughter and I went to the Scandinavian Midsummer Festival at our Scandinavian Community Centre to see if we could find a little of that magic I always miss. We were very pleasantly surprised how the event had grown and how well attended it was. I loved the choir, the folk dancers, and the variety of colourful and beautifully made national costumes they wore as did the many volunteers and quite a few visitors. (How I wish my mother’s fit me.) We enjoyed samples of food and displays set up by each Nordic country celebrating their heritage and crafts.

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The Viking Village was definitely the most impressive, put together with a lot of hard work by the Norwegian and Icelandic members. The village held a couple of boats, one just recently completed and made by hand, interesting tents with carved and detailed wood frames, upright looms in the prehistoric style, shields, helmets and weapons, and characters in Viking era costumes and jewelry enacting scenes of village life.

Other highlights for us were the Finnish birch bark woven crafts and wood objects, plus the Dane Steen Larsen and his reproduction of an 1830 European barrel 72 pipe organ that he built and which plays six different melodies.

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So it was that a little of that nostalgia and pride for the traditions of the old country was nourished and satisfied in me. All of us people there celebrated midsummer in an emigrant-Nordic way far way from our roots. If you live in the Vancouver area and you are interested, the fest is still on today and is open to everyone.
Hauskaa Juhannusta! Happy solstice!

Some interesting related links:
June hardly sleeps **
In Scandinavia, Solstice Means Fun in the Midnight Sun
Solstice at the megaliths in Brittany**, something that I’d like to experience someday

** Edits: links no longer work and have been removed

Brighton’s roofs: details

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Some closer shots of Brighton’s fascinating roof panorama and some of its wild life. The seagull nest attracted me, and soon the watchful seagull came closer… in warning or in friendly interest? Note the baby seagull on the far right and what may be a pigeon on the left, I forget. I felt like I was the one being watched.

Brighton’s roofs

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Lunch in Brighton was in a lively large Italian restaurant. We were seated upstairs in a bright room next to large windows that looked out onto rooftops. The roofs and chimney pots in London (and even later in Paris) fascinated me. So here in Brighton was a perfect opportunity to grab some photos while waiting for dessert (tiramisu if you want to know). I was given permission to go out on the small landing, a perfect vantage point.

What an amazing patchwork of textures, shapes, colours and patterns, don’t you think? Times like this I wished I’d taken along our better but heavy SLR camera, but I still hope I’ll be able to use some of these in future prints! More photos to come….

visiting Brighton

After our weekend in Birmingham, already the next day we were off on another train trip with our daughter’s family, this time for a day trip to Brighton. Our son-in-law had accepted a long-standing invitation from a cousin whom he’d not seen in about twenty years. Cousin Pat and her husband Dave generously met us at the train station there and spent the day giving us a walkabout tour around their city.

I’d heard much of Brighton through readings of English history and literature, especially of the early 19th century when it was the fashionable resort for the royalty. Our daughter had spent a little time there as a student and remembered enjoying the beach. This time she was surprised, as were we, to find Brighton rather shabby in the areas we visited, including its formerly grand hotels, but here and there were some nice restorations and funky shops and restaurants.

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Of course we had to see the famous wide pebbly beach, the pier and the rows and rows of empty beach chairs. It was cool and cloudy so you can see better beach photos than ours here. Along the boardwalk or promenade were the usual range of (sometimes tacky) gift and ice cream shops and cafés, a nice little fishing museum honouring the town’s former industry and a colourful carousel which of course the granddaughters had to go on for a lovely ride with their mommy.

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There were crowds of visitors everywhere because of the annual Brighton Festival with its streets and squares punctuated with lively performers. As we entered a green park, we were met with an unusual vision: the Royal Pavilion which seemed so unreal and exotic in this setting with its “Indo-Saracenic style”. Part of it is under restoration as seen on the park side but the street view was amazing.

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In the first photo of the Royal Pavilion, do you see the bright round disk on the right edge? I was happy to discover that It’s an installation of a mirror-like disk by Anish Kapoor who was also the Guest Artistic Director for this year’s festival. If you are interested, see the slide show and other links about Kapoor’s works, including pieces that we sadly didn’t see.

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We happened on groups of protestors a couple of times, first by the train station then by the tea shop where we stopped at the end of the afternoon. They seemed to be protesting against India’s treatment of the Tamil Tigers in Sri Lanka. We noted with some alarm the extreme reaction of the police, marching forth in ‘army gear’ on foot, on horseback and in large armoured vehicles. Of course they attracted crowds – why are people so keen to see possible violence?

Anyway, it was a lovely day in Brighton, even the children had a great time, thanks to Pat and Dave! Next post I’ll show some interesting photos I took from the rooftop of the Italian restaurant we lunched at.

visiting Birmingham (UK)

I’m falling behind in reporting on our trip to London and a bit beyond and to Paris. I’ve been so busy gardening and watering that by the end of each incredibly warm day I’m too tired and hot to think, plus we’ve had problems with our internet connection (now solved). If you are a new reader and wish to read the earlier posts about our recent trip, just click on the theme Travel on the side bar or here.

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Our first trip outside London was to our son-in-law’s hometown of Birmingham. We took the train with our daughter’s family on a Saturday morning, the first of several train trips on this vacation. We found the train services excellent in the UK and it’s so much more relaxing than trying to drive the roads on the wrong side! Even though I had a book along and family to chat with, I frequently fell into a kind of meditative state gazing out the window, enjoying glimpses through trees of a green and pastoral English countryside, speckled occasionally with sheep, cows or horses.

In Birmingham we met J’s family, including a new family member, his sister’s adorable four month old boy, our granddaughters’ first cousin. Except for the baby of course, we’ve met them in the past on their visits to Vancouver. Now it was wonderful to see them again and to be shown around their city. Walking around the centre, fascinated by the old architecture, sometimes mixed with the new, we covered several very large and attractive squares and broad car-free pedestrian-only walkways. (This reminded us how much we’ve loved this in other European cities, and I wish Vancouver and other Canadian cities would do this.) We were pleasantly surprised how spacious and clean everything felt after busy London, even though there were still lots of people around. We did pass through a couple of malls that were pretty much the same as those in North America, places that I’m not too fond of.

An exciting surprise for me was to meet Antony Gormley’s Iron: Man (colloquially referred to as The Iron Man), a statue in Victoria Square (top right photo), the first time I’ve seen one of his sculptures! Second surprise was to see the canals, so lovely with their boats! Apparently Birmingham has more canal mileage than any other city in the world.

I also learned that the Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery has a very large collection of pre-Raphaelite art, which we had hoped to see on Sunday morning. However we neglected to note that it does not open until 12:30 pm on Sundays, when we went in for lunch…and then had to catch the train back to London. Too short a visit, but delightful! Next time I’d love to see more of the heritage buildings and the city parks and the art, of course, as J’s parents are so knowledgeable about their city! Too many photos to share, but here are just a few of our favourites.

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London: details #3

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Continuing my photo series of details that caught my eye in London…

The earlier ones are here and here. More still to come.
UPDATE: details #4

empty nest

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About the size of a strawberry, this looks like an incomplete yet incredibly intricate paper wasp nest. What do you think? Isn’t it amazingly beautiful and intricate when enlarged on the scanner?

I found this on the floor of our solarium while watering some plants. I’d noticed it over the winter attached to the frame of the openable skylight, far out of reach. It probably got knocked down when the skylight was opened during last week’s heat wave.

Compare this to the pieces of another kind of wasp nest.

London: British Museum

The day after the art-filled visit with Natalie, and feeling a bit more confident with the transit system, my husband and I ventured out on our own on the double-decker bus. We sat up on top, front row and enjoyed the street scenes and variety of architecture. We had a map book and tried to follow the route, something that I like doing in new places, perhaps it gives me a sense of grounding and direction.

So we found our way to the British Museum. What a huge and impressive piece of classical architecture with its Greek columns and immense courtyard full of crowds of mostly students. Inside the glass-covered inner Great Court was a wonderful and bright and airy space.

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We knew that it would be impossible to see everything so we tried to choose areas that were less known to us. The first thing we came upon with a bit of a feeling of surprise was the Rosetta Stone (above left). Covered in reflective glass and surrounded by masses of people all trying to take photos, it was hard to get a good image. (Here’s a reasonably good one).

Nearby was the Egyptian hall with its immense pillars and sculptures, like the one above right, some with hieroglyphics. Beyond were the Assyrian friezes or stone panels that I loved the most of what we did see, some favourites are shown in the photos below.

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We visited the North-American native room and the Mexican one (with a photo below), rather small collections in comparison. We really enjoyed the Armenian, early-Turkish and Mesopotamian collections. Much as we wanted to see more of other cultures, by then we were tired and dazed and found ourselves just walking more quickly through some rooms, just skimming immense collections of precious objects in glass cases on our way to the exit.

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Unfortunately, the card in our camera was full too quickly and I was very upset not to get more photos! We’d forgotten to erase photos from back home, plus new ones from our first three days. A lesson learned – we downloaded them at the end of each day after that, as well as recharging the batteries. I had hoped to get back to the Museum again but we ran out of time and energy. Another year hopefully.

What is it about museums of civilization, history, archaeology and antiquities that interest me almost more than art museums? Really, what we saw was art, VERY old art. Archaeology and art are very close, I think, and therein lie my passions.

Entry to the British Museum is free, except for the temporary traveling exhibitions and that to me is a model I wish we had in Canada. Of course, the museum has an immense collection that’s been donated by wealthy collectors since the mid 18th century, often from the spoils of war and empire building, something that kept niggling at the back of my mind even as I admired all of it.

By the way, I recently learned that the Royal BC Museum in Victoria is presenting the North American premiere of Treasures: The World’s Cultures from the British Museum, May 1st until September 30th. How cool is that?!

heat wave whine

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too hot to plant my garden
(I’m way behind because of the trip)
too much weeding and watering to do
too hot to sleep, too hot to think, too hot to write

We’ve had only one partial day of rain since we got home two weeks ago. This record-breaking heat for this time of year is more like our usual weather in the latter half of July. Like most Vancouverites, we do not have air-conditioning, in fact our home is designed to take advantage of all the sun it can get, which is okay for most times of the year. I’ve noticed, besides the heat induced smog over the city, a faint smoky smell. Apparently it is drifting down from forest fires to the north of us.

Such extremes this year with an unusually cold winter and late spring and now this heat which has forced many flowers, such as the late rhododendrons, to come to bloom quickly and to fade even more quickly. Just like me, that is, the fading. Hope to be back to the travel posts soon, but now I must find a cool spot somewhere…