west coast retreat #2

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Last week we took a few days’ escape to our favourite ‘treat and retreat’ on the west coast of Vancouver Island near the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. We always love the journey – the ferry trip there and back and the drive over the island’s mountains. Being spring this time, we particularly enjoyed all the native Pacific dogwood with their white blossoms contrasting with the dark evergreens and the fresh new lighter greens of the deciduous trees.

I recall the mind-blowing first impression on our very first visit in late October 1992, a few weeks after my father passed away. Since then it has been ‘our place’ for restoring body and spirit. I’m not sure how many times we’ve been there over the years, maybe a dozen or so and most frequently in the past few years, and always to the same rustic little cabins by the sea near Tofino. Once we took our youngest daughter, maybe about eight years old at the time during her spring break and once with our Danish friends.

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This time our dearest friends who now live in Victoria met us there and stayed with us for the first three days. They have often hosted us at their little cabin on Hornby Island, another special place for us, so we were delighted to show them some of our favourite spots. The last time they were here was in 1970 and so much has changed, though not the majestic sea and the forests.

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We had many walks along the many lovely sandy beaches of the area. The Wickaninnish Center on Long Beach was open (it’s usually closed in the winter when we most often visit) so we were able to enjoy the Interpretive Center which has excellent displays and films of the history of the First Nations culture of the area, then a special birthday lunch in our favourite restaurant in the same building overlooking the ocean. A tour around Tofino with some shopping at the excellent First Nations gift store, then coffee and baked treats at the local bakery-cafe was our small town fix one afternoon.

The weather was mixed and very changeable with some sunny periods, allowing us to enjoy lunch outside our cabin one day, with a cheeky seagull then a bold crow almost stealing my lunch.

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One day was exceptionally windy, a delight for the many surfers in the area. We even hit a blinding sandstorm coming around a point – a first! Later that evening those powerful winds knocked out the power for several hours overnight. Thank goodness I always pack along candles and a flashlight, and more were provided by the management. Sometimes it felt like our little cabin was being pounded by something heavy and the rain thundered down loudly all night, keeping me awake. A most unusual storm for May we were told, more typical in winter but the strongest we’d experienced in our visits.

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Our last day rewarded us with afternoon sunshine and a glorious sunset, something we’ve been blessed with at least once at every visit I think! We wished our friends had seen this.

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I didn’t think I took as many photos as the last time but between us we still managed to rack up almost 300, so it’s taking time to sort and delete some of them. Here are a few, some are my husband’s. I’ll likely keep sharing more from time to time, especially the detail shots that I so love to take.

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Long time readers may be familiar with some of the posts I’ve written of the earlier trips we’ve taken in the years since I started blogging: 2008, 2006, 2005 and 2004. As this has grown far too long already I won’t bore you with all the links to the many photos I have posted here and there in the archives.

west coast retreat

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back from a few days on the wild west coast…. more later!

South Nevada rock art, part 3

We continue this short collaborative series with guest contributor Loretta who is kindly sharing her observations and photographs of some of the rock art found in her home region in the southwest US. (Please see part 1 and part 2.)

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Grapevine Canyon near Christmas Tree Pass has one of the largest numbers of petroglyphs in one place in S. Nevada, and one of the most accessible. The pass is well marked, just a few miles off the main highway west of Laughlin, which is on the Colorado River. From a parking lot, you trudge along a sandy dry river bed until huge dark boulders rise before you, framing the canyon. An astonishing number of petroglyphs completely cover the boulders. As you turn to look back down the river bed, a broad vista opens up, taking your eye down toward the Colorado River and beyond to the rugged mountains of Arizona.

The dry river bed has its origins near the top of the canyon, where reeds and wild grapevines announce the presence of water. Bits of green edge the trickle of water coming down until it disappears under the boulders, hiding its life-giving essence from the harsh desert sunlight.

The petroglyphs themselves are remarkably well-preserved, with only a few having been defaced. One can imagine the good times enjoyed by the ancient travelers in this gathering place as they shared stories and carved pictures as illustrations to leave for others to find – could they have imagined us, now, wondering and puzzling over them?

A fascinating related link: How to make a petroglyph (thanks to gabriolan)

All photographs © Loretta
See also: part 4

a year ago, May 14th

I ran out of time and steam to write much about the last week of our Europe trip a year ago, and since I’m rereading my paper travel diary almost daily, I thought I’d put in a few snippets from it to fill in the gaps, when I get the chance.

We said tearful goodbyes to our family in London after a lovely two and half week stay with them. We were picked up by a taxi service and taken to St. Pancras station which was very nice, like an airport with efficient and friendly service. Way too early as we were, we wandered about then sat down for coffee at a well-known American chain and enjoyed a truly piping hot cuppa with full cream, something that seemed rare in most places in England.

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a view from the train still in the UK

The Eurostar train was very pleasant, smooth-riding and fast, offering nice glimpses of the English countryside, and even another ‘white horse’ on a hillside, and a few tunnels along the way. We did not even realize when we were in France (I’d briefly dozed while husband was reading) until I noticed an IKEA Maison and the highways with drivers on the ‘right’ side! The countryside did not look that different.

Gare du Nord station in Paris was not as nice as St. Pancras for parts of it were under reconstruction. It was very busy there while we waited anxiously for our driver who was late to pick us up and take us to the apartment that we’d rented for the week. He did arrive and was most apologetic due to the rush hour. First impressions from the back of the car were of polite drivers but many aggressive motorcyclists, including women, and regular cyclists on bicycle paths that were part of wide sidewalks rather than the busy road. People seemed very relaxed even in the rush hour.

We picked up our keys and were then driven down a very narrow lane, more of a pedestrian lane, to our building in Le Marais district close to the Seine River. The elevator was not working so we had quite a trek up the winding stairs with luggage up to the third floor, thanks to the help of the driver. The apartment, as we expected, was modest but clean and facing an inner courtyard so fairly quiet. Lovely big bed after that narrow hideway at daughter’s and a real shower in the bathroom!

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our street in Le Marais

After relaxing for a while we went out to explore the area. Two small supermarkets below us and a health food store around the corner, many cafes and patisseries around. Hôtel de Ville (city hall) on a big square with a carousel and fountains, beyond the river and a bridge to Île de la Cité. Lots of people out enjoying the evening. Nice. A light supper at a nearby cafe before we wandered back “home”.

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Hôtel de Ville square at dusk

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the fountains by Hôtel de Ville square

Wow. We are really in Paris!

one year, ten years

On my reading rounds around the bloghood earlier today, I came across two mentions of the Tate Modern. This made me check my travel diary from a year ago – yes! it was exactly a year ago that we were there (never mind the time difference). What a memorable experience that visit and that day was, as was the whole trip for we travel so rarely beyond our own province.

First I read Olga’s post about some exhibitions she’d recently visited. I was particularly intrigued by her mention of the work of new-to me artist Rachel Whiteread who made an enormous installation at Tate Modern using cardboard boxes as her casting source, inspired by an old box she had found in her mother’s belongings.

Next I learned about Tate Modern’s 10th anniversary at Katherine Tyrrell’s blog, Making a Mark. As she always does, she has written a well-researched article with lots of interesting links about Tate Modern and its celebrations.

Revisiting the Rachel Whiteread link later as I composed this, I see that her exhibition was actually in 2005/06, one of an ongoing Unilever Series of commissions installed in the great Turbine Hall. When we were there last year, I was a bit disappointed that there was no exhibition at that time in the Hall. Browsing through the Unilever Series, past and present, I know that I would have loved to have seen Whiteread’s work, and that of Louise Bourgeois, and Juan Muñoz, whose fantastic work I saw for the first time in the lovely Louisiana Museum in Denmark in yr 2000.

I know I am rambling now…. just as one rambles around the ‘net, making all kinds of interesting discoveries and connections.

growing vegetables

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Or, really, the trouble with growing some of your own vegetables….

Why did we, a month ago, book a short holiday for next week, at the busiest time of the gardening season? Spring had been so cool that my tomato, pepper and cucumber seeds in the solarium had a slow start but have taken off recently with more sunshine. The 8 cucumber and 36 root-bound tomato plants in small pots are now starting to flower. I don’t want to pot them up into larger pots for I don’t have any more room indoors. I should plant them outside, but the nights are still below 10C and there is a threat of rain on the weekend. What to do? I may have to move them downstairs to a cooler shadier area to tide them over until we get back. At least daughter is at home to water them.

Why 36 tomato plants, you ask? I think every seed germinated, and there were more that I already gave away. Last year at this time, we were in the UK and I had only a few tomato plants to come home to, and really missed them, so I kind of got carried away this year, I think. Our deck will be so crowded with vegetables in pots that there will be little room for humans. Such is the life of this artist when not in the studio in the summer.

to carers

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It is Mother’s Day here in Canada and a few other countries, but I’d like to honour not just mothers, but all people, young and old, who care for their families, friends, patients or strangers! You make this mixed up world a saner place because of your love.

It’s the first very warm weekend here, just glorious! Yesterday, we started the gradual migration to outdoor living by hanging my home-grown ivy geranium basket outside by the patio door and putting out the deck furniture. Later today we are going to have a quiet celebration with our youngest daughter, a Mother’s Day baby 25 years ago, by going for a forest walk then dinner at a favourite seaside seafood restaurant.

May your day be wonderful!

South Nevada rock art, part 2

We continue the series by guest contributor Loretta who shares her observations and photos of rock art from her home region in southwest US, with links added by me. Please first visit Part 1 should you have missed it.

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The Valley of Fire State Park lies within the sky glow of Las Vegas, about 55 miles east of the city lights. The Park is reknowned for its scenic red rocks, petroglyphs, and petrified wood, and is easily accessible by car. You can drive from one spot to another and take short hikes to view the scenery. Wandering the well-marked trails in the park, one finds it hard to think that civilization (well, Las Vegas, anyway) is so close by.

The park is Nevada’s largest, dedicated in 1935, and is popular with tourists and locals who bring their visitors for a sample of the non-gaming side of Nevada. It is not a place to experience the solitude that the desert offers in many other locations, but the petroglyphs and scenery make it well worth the trip. The weathered red sandstone rock formations rise against the backdrop of the dry Mojave Desert. The land slopes gradually down toward the once mighty Colorado River, now held back by Hoover Dam to form Lake Mead. The lake itself is about 100 feet below normal levels, due to a years-long drought in the West and the ever-increasing demands of humans.

We visited the park in December during the school holidays several years ago when our son was visiting. The weather was perfect, sunny with a slight chill in the air in the shady spots. The presence of other people made it difficult to reflect much on what we were seeing, the petroglyphs, but I take pleasure in going back to look at the photographs at my leisure.

Some of the petroglyphs are scraped onto the dark “desert varnish” on the rock, others onto the red sandstone. The work has been attributed to the “Basket maker people” and the later “Anasazi farmers” inhabiting the area from about 300 B.C. to 1150 A.D. according to Park information. I especially like the rock formation picture, above. Though not a petroglyph, its huge round shape and rough form seem to have a human meaning. Or not…all in the eye of the beholder!

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Desert bighorn sheep (NV state animal) often provided subject matter for the rock artists along with the atlatl, as depicted on “Atlatl Rock.” The atlatl is an ancient hunting tool that allowed a projectile to be thrown with force and accuracy.

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The linked figures are intriguing. Is it a family motif? Or more ritualistic, with the stylized large figures on the left – shamans, perhaps – leading the more recognizable human figures – a man and woman – in a ceremony or dance?

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Another set of figures, high on a canyon wall, seem to depict a person wearing a horned headdress joining hands with two unadorned people.

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The footprint petroglyph shows signs of vandalism, unfortunately, where someone scratched across the rock face. For centuries, the petroglyphs withstood the elements, wind, rain, desert heat. I hope they will survive the modern era.

All photographs © Loretta
See also:
part 3
part 4

Leonardo da Vinci Drawings

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This is a week late but I cannot let it go by without expressing my excitement, astonishment and feelings of being newly inspired by the greatest Renaissance man.

Days before the exhibition was to end, my husband and I made it to the Vancouver Art Gallery to see the exhibition Leonardo da Vinci: The Mechanics of Man. We thought we were avoiding the crowds during the Olympics but we were surprised to be standing in a long line snaking quite a ways outside, for this was the ‘by donation’ night, always popular but even more so with this exhibition!

From the VAG’s website, in case this page should go down soon:

One of the most important of Leonardo da Vinci’s artistic and scientific investigations of the human body was conducted for a planned treatise on anatomy. To accomplish this, Leonardo appears to have worked with a scientist from the University of Pavia to participate in dissections of corpses, which were rarely performed at the time. These direct observations by Leonardo resulted in an exceptional body of work that remains, to this day, one of the greatest triumphs of drawing and scientific inquiry.

Leonardo’s group of drawings, referred to as the Anatomical Manuscript A, concentrates on the structures of the body and the movements of musculature. Shown for the first time as a complete group in this exhibition, Manuscript A encompasses thirty-four of Leonardo’s pen and ink anatomical drawings on eighteen sheets of paper, rendered during the winter of 1510-1511. Included are the first known accurate depictions of the spinal column and two magisterial sheets depicting the musculature of the lower legs and feet. The works are graciously loaned by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II from The Royal Collection, Windsor.

Leonardo’s ink drawings are small, incredibly fine and detailed with even tinier handwriting in mirror image on letter sized paper. Many viewers had magnifying glasses! Some of the studies had been enlarged onto wall posters with translations from Italian to English and with commentary to add to our understanding. A woman, standing next to me as we studied one of the originals, said that she was a medical worker and had studied anatomy and dissection and expressed awe at the incredible accuracy of most of the drawings.

We were incredulous to learn that not long after these drawings had been finished, they were virtually locked up for centuries instead of benefitting the medical students they had been intended for. They were not published until the end of the 19th century. I’m not sure how they ended up in England’s royal collection.

I was completely in thrall of these fine drawings, as I have always loved drawings the most of all media, and Leonardo da Vinci’s are right at the top of my favourites! I’ll never forget the drawings by him which I saw in the Uffici Gallery in Florence many years ago, coming on them quite by accident on my way out, like the icing on the cake!

Of course, I just had to buy the excellent hard cover book accompanying this exhibition! The above image is a scanned detail from the cover overleaf, since no photos were allowed in the gallery.

Here are links to some articles which also have a few images:

Leonardo da Vinci Drawings Coming to the Vancouver Art Gallery

Leonardo da Vinci gets under the skin in Vancouver exhibit (Click on “story” then “photos”)

In conjunction with this exhibition was another called Visceral Bodies (still on until the 16th of May), consisting of works by a number of contemporary artists from different parts of the world. Again, from the VAG site:

Many of the works in Visceral Bodies comment on issues of identity, pathology and normality. Refuting the modernist image of science as an unquestioned source of progress, Visceral Bodies presents a variety of reflections on how the human form can be understood and represented, especially given the ambiguities and provocations of the genetic age.

Most of these were fascinating, some a bit too gruesome but I could identify with the issues. I wish VAG’s website listed all the artists names, for I can’t remember them all and did not wish to buy another catalogue. This exhibition seems to have been overshadowed by Leonardo’s work even in the media, but here is one excellent review of both these exhibitions, with some images as well, written far better than I could do.

South Nevada rock art, part 1

I’m thrilled to introduce Loretta as a guest contributor who will be most generously sharing her observations and amazing photos of rock art that she has found in her home region in southwest US. Loretta has done all the hard work for this short series we are doing so please welcome her with your comments. Now in Loretta’s own words….

Greetings from the Mojave Desert in southern Nevada. When I discovered Marja-Leena’s blog, I felt a kinship due to her interest in ancient rock art and a shared Finnish heritage. All of my grandparents immigrated from Finland prior to World War I, arriving in Upper Michigan. I had the good fortune to visit Finland, in 2001 and 2007, with my sister. We discovered long-lost cousins who greeted us with warmth and gracious hospitality. While there, I became aware of the images that the Sami people in the far North of Finland – still known as Lapland to most of the world – use to decorate their drumheads and other objects. The images reminded me of the Native American pictographs and petroglyphs found in the West.

Reading Marja-Leena’s blog and seeing her petroglyph photos sent me searching through my photos (pre-digital!). I wrote to Marja-Leena and offered to send her some of my photographs of petroglyphs and pictographs found in southern Nevada to compare. She graciously offered to allow me to share them via her blog.

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Petroglyphs and rock paintings (pictographs) appear in many locations around southern Nevada, most often near water. Although the origins and meanings of the markings are under discussion, clearly they have been created by ancient people recording events in their daily lives.

The two photos here I find most fascinating. My husband and I found this location after reading about it in a local newspaper. It is in a low range of mountains a mile or so off a main highway running across a wide valley containing a dry lake bed. Although seldom seen in the desert, water leaves evidence of its existence all around – dry lakes, streams, and rivers abound. Running water carved the rock formation pictured over eons, yet there is not a visible water source above it. It is at the end of a short slot canyon that opens out onto an alluvial fan sloping down across a busy highway to the dry lake bed.

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As we turned our backs on the highway and entered the canyon, the sound of silence enveloped us. I walked under a low hanging rock ledge along the canyon and happened to look up to see two faint paintings on the ceiling above me – a figure with encircling arms and a sun, perhaps? They are not visible to anyone unless you walk under the ledge and look up. They reminded me of the first rock painting that I remember seeing – a red hand print on the wall of a cliff, high above a trail in Montana at the confluence of the North and South Forks of the Sun River. My good fortune is to have seen these reminders of those who have gone before me.

All photographs © Loretta
Further reading: Nevada Rock Art Foundation
and the rest of the series:
South Nevada rock art, part 2
South Nevada rock art, part 3
South Nevada rock art, part 4